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FSWizard v2.1.1

April 10, 2022, 8:50 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)
(4)_image.png

FSWizard Machinist Speed And Feed Calculator has a new feature!

Filtering was added to the Cut Cloud tool list, making it easy to find the tools you are looking for:

You can filter by the library name, Tool type, and/or by a plain-text search.

Additionally, the list now checks the version and updates in the background, which means the page now appears almost immediately. No more waiting for 15-20 seconds to download all your tools each time you open it.

Thanks to everybody who made improvement suggestions and feature requests!

As usual, you can find the links to the FSWizard app here: https://fswizard.com/

Cheers!

Adding more seats to your existing HSMAdvisor License

March 24, 2022, 11:08 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Who likes to send emails and worry about additional invoices just to add a couple of seats to their existing license?

Nobody that's who!

HSMAdvisor customers can now purchase more seats right from the https://hsmadvisor.com/buy page.
All you have to do is enter the same First Name, Last Name, and Email you used when purchasing the original license.
The multiple-seat discount will apply to the existing license!

More information can be found on the new help page: https://hsmadvisor.com/help?article_id=5497_adding-more-seats-to-your-license

HSMAdvisor and FSWizard Speed and Feed Calculators are being continually developed and enriched with new features.

Help them get even better by providing your feedback and suggestions!

Best regards.

HSMAdvisor Workflow Overview

April 25, 2021, 10:59 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

As a software developer, I am always looking for quality feedback on my software and ideas.
Sometimes it is useless like "speeds and feeds are wrong" or "my cutters are breaking" without explaining what they think is wrong. 
However, the feedback is often thorough and helps propel HSMAdvisor development by miles ahead in a very short time frame.

Here is the HSMAdvisor workflow step-though by our user Jake. He posted on the support forums as an answer to another user's question. And I thought it was so good, I asked his permission to post it on the HSMAdvisor website Help section:

I've been using HMSA for about 3 years now (maybe more) and have running it down to a pretty quick science.

If I need to create a new tool I do the following:

Press reset, select tool type and fill in all parameters as accurately as possible. I click the DOC and WOC labels to set them back to default then I press the "Add Tool" button. This will bring the naming/inventory box up. I only ever fill in the the "Comment" field as this is what the tool database uses to search for tools. Once this is done I click the save button. I use multiple databases (Flat End Mills, Radius End Mills, Jobber Drills, etc) to keep thing a little more organized in my head, however this is absolutely NOT necessary...you can have 1 giant library if you want. I never delete a tool once it is defined. This makes it SUPER fast to toss a tool into a holder and get some quick feeds/speeds by just searching for the tool. It also allows me to go back and search for a tool that I have used in the past. If it is in my HSMA library, it is most likely in one of the many places tools end up hiding in my shop.

If you have the tool saved it is as simple as pressing the "Load Tool/Cut" button. Once your tool database has popped up you can simply start typing and it will find any tools with a "Comment" that matches what you have entered. It's really fast and works really well once you get used to the steps...I can type in "3/8" and get every 3/8 endmill I've ever run to come up on the screen. To make this easier on myself I always include the decimal size as well (I run quite a few regrinds) so I can type in "0.3425" and it will bring up that particular end mill instantly.

Now that your tool is defined and saved you are ready to get some cutting data. If you pick the materials list drop-down you are able to type your material in to do a quick search. I work with 6061, 7075, A2, D2, some CPM, and some plastics. All of them have come up without fail by just starting to type the material designation into the drop-down bar. Once your material is selected you can start entering cutting parameters. I pretty much always enter a DOC and then click the label for WOC to get the recommended width for the depth I am taking. I can then take this WOC value and tweak it until I max out my MRR using a combination of HSM and Chip Thinning. If I need to helix into a pocket I bring up the Circle/Ramp calculator. It is rather self-explanatory, however, you need to make sure you enter your ramp angle every time. It doesn't save a default and can give you a wonky plunge rate if you aren't careful to get the right data entered. If your pocket is going to be larger than 2xD of your tool I just enter the diameter that it will cut during the ramp. Something like 195% of the tool diameter so as to not leave a nub in the center. I also lock the spindle speed and plunge spindle speed so they are the same. I used to use different speeds for them however my machine has a gearbox that doesn't shift from low to high reliably while running a program.

Next, I verify all the green/red bars are in the "safe zones." I leave the deflection/torque sliders at the default of 70%. With long end-mills, I tend to back down the deflection limit and lower the speed slider significantly.

Finally, I can take the calculated values from the top right box and enter them into Mastercam. I tried to set up the integration between HSM and MCAM years ago but it kinda shoehorned the functionality of HSMA from my standpoint. I use 2 monitors and leave HSM on one and MCAM on the other so I can bounce back and forth. If you only have 1 monitor there is a button for a "Floating Feed/Speed" window that will stay on top of MCAM and allow you to get the data moved without tons of switching programs on a single screen.

So that's the basic workflow I use for HSMA and MasterCam. It is not a perfect system but it is really quick. I can grab a tool I have defined in the past, select material, type in DOC, and have workable numbers to start from. It takes about 10 seconds....this program works exactly like my brain does.... it's almost weird how natural it feels.

Sorry if this is an overwhelming post on a necro thread, it is so much harder to explain how to use the software than it is to just....use the software. lol.

Jake

Custom CNC Pendant Project

April 13, 2021, 12:28 am by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)
Pendant.jpg

Ever since getting my benchtop CNC running, I have not been very happy with the lack of manual control over overrides and buttons.

This DIY Engineering video gave me a great idea: build one myself.

I wanted the smooth speed and feed overrides, so I decided to not go with HID device, but instead with a full serial control paired with a custom plugin on the UCCNC side.

Here is the Fusion design of the enclosure:

And here it is 3D-Printed.
Acrylic face engraved from the back side and painted.
And all buttons and controls mounted:

All I have to do now is wire the Arduino board, program the plugin, and test it!

Update:

Here is the video of the pendant in action:

 

1. PCB Design

Design notes:

  • All resistors used were 10K
  • Speed and Feed potentiometers are 10K
    Their pinout goes Wiper->ground = 0%, Wiper -> +5V = 200%
  • Axis and Handwheel Increment rotary switches are 4-position and their pinout goes like this:
    Axis select 1-X, 2-Y, 3-Z, 4-A, C-Common (+5V)
    Handwheel Increment 1-0.0001, 2-0.0010, 3-0.0100, 4-0.1000, C-Common (+5V)
  • All function buttons such as Jog +/-, M1, M2, etc are sending +5V signals to the digital pins D2-D12
  • D13 digital pin is connected to a LED indicator and is used to tell the user that the Pendant is allowed to send signals to the plugin.

Design files:

2. Enclosure Design

https://a360.co/3fG3jgI 

image

If you don't have a 3D printer and/or a CNC Mill, please contact me and I will send you a 3d-printed enclosure and the 3d-printed or milled acrylic face plate:

  • 3D-Printed Black PLA Enclosure (shown in pictures): 30$ + shipping
  • 3D-Printed Black PLA Face Plate (optional): 15$ + shipping
  • CNC Milled and Engraved unpainted (clear) acrylic Face Plate (shown in pictures): 30$ + shipping

3. Arduino Setup

  • Install the Full Firmata library onto your Arduino Nano (Or any other Ardiono that supports USB Serial Communication): imageStandardFirmata sketch used for Arduino NANO is also added to the release package
  • Please note that you might need to install Arduino USB Driver in order for your Arduino to work on the target computer!

4. UCCNC Setup

  • Download the latest LEETArduinoPendant from the releases and extract it to your PC.
    https://github.com/swindex/LEETArduinoPendant/releases
  • Copy the LEETArduinoPendant.dll plugin file to the C:\UCCNC\Plugins directory!
  • Copy the Solid.Arduino.dll file from the Solid.Arduino release folder to the C:\UCCNC directory.
  • Please note that you might need to install Arduino USB Driver in order for your Arduino to work on the target computer!
  • Launch UCCNC.exe, go to Settings->Configure Plugins, and mark the LEET Arduino Pendant plugin as Enabled and Call startup
  • After everything is installed, Arduino is connected and UCCNC is running, press the "Enable" (+5v to D2-B-ENABLE ) button that will tell the plugin that the pendant is ready to send signals! D13 (LED+) will then have a continuous +3.3V signal alerting you of that!

Hardware Acquisition (Amazon)

Fusion F360 desing files Leet-Pendant-3D-Bodies.zip Size:2.55 MB

Avid CNC Benchtop Pro: HSM and High Feed Milling

March 15, 2020, 3:36 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

On the heels of the previous post.

YouTuber Breaking Taps has just published another of his interesting videos:

In it he is testing various High-Speed Machining techniques on his benchtop CNC router.

Also it is mentioned that HSMAdvisor does not seem to like those small high-feed cutters: at some point some calculated values become negative.

This is a legitimate criticism and it actually happens because default cutting depth of 0.024" becomes too large for the 0.24" Lakeshore high feed and mill and an actual Flute length of 0.015" must be entered in order to get proper values:


With actual 0.015" flute length entered the recommended speed and feed values are now in the safe end of the ballpark suggested by the manufacturer.

Task added to the issue tracker!

Just found a very good video of testing a table-top gantry router cutting mild steel.

YouTuber named "Breaking Tapsused speeds and feeds generated by HSMAdvisor to get a starting point.

To see where exactly he was in the calculations I decided to reproduce all of cuts in HSMAdvisor.

A couple of assumptions i made:

  1. Tool Type: Solid End Mill. It is not recommended to use the HP/Roughing tool type on such light machines, so i assumed this is the tool BT used.
  2. Tool Stick-out looked like about 3/4" so I used that number.
  3. Material was set to A36 Hot rolled steel.

Test 1) Minute 4:52

Good, slow and very safe starting point.

Test 2) Minute 6:20

Twice as aggressive as before, but we can still push it further.

Test 3) Minute 7:10

Here we can see the lack of machine rigidity starting to show. But at 65% feed rate it is still alive.

Test 4) Minute 8:30

This last test did not go well at all.

The machine has finally hit its limit and the endmill broke at all S&F overrides at about 100%

Was this fault of the software? Not really!

If that were a heavier machine, the last cut would not even be considered that difficult.

Here is a full slotting cut on a Matsuura VMC:

And here is the calculation that was done using HP/Roughing End Mill tool type:

If i were using the "Solid End Mill" tool definition, i would have to dial the feed override to 176% to match the 45ipm feed rate!

So what can users of light machines do in order to not break taps end mills?

First of all make sure the spindle torque curve is built and enabled in your machine profile settings.

The easiest solution is to de-rate the spindle. There is "Warning at" level in machine profile settings. Set that to 50% for starters and it should save you from exceeding the machine's capabilities.

Overall this was a great test of this little machine's capabilities and of the great help that software like HSMAdviasor can lend in discovering them.

Please head over to Breaking Taps YouTube account and subscribe.

New goodies in FSWizard!

May 27, 2019, 10:56 am by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Version 1.605 brings us the following new features:

  • Width of Cut for milling tools can now be set as percentage of the tool diameter.
  • Speeds and Feeds page now has bigger header with more information and bigger fonts.
  • Added pilot hole for taps and readers to the cut info pane.
  • Improved the functionality of the Scientific Calculator.
Screenshot_2019-05-26-23-21-59.png Screenshot_2019-05-26-23-21-59.png

HSMAdvisor Design Changes

September 27, 2018, 3:18 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

IF you were wondering if i had fallen of the face of the earth, here is what i was up to.

I have been developing a new cleaner look for HSMAdvisor (see the attachment).

First thing you notice is the Dark background color. I plan to make that the new default background.

The color theme will be configurable to appeal to those who want to stay on the light side.

Label positioning will change to above the input fields, because it seems to make it easier on the eyes to associate the label and the field.

The Tool and Cut drop-downs will be removed along with the "menu" buttons on the right of them. Tool and Cut selection will be moved to "Load Tool/Cut" buttons.
I believe the Load Tool/Cut dialog to be the better option.

Tool Limits and Speed and Feed Overrides expandable panels will be merged with Gauges and Cut Data panels respectively.
This will further lighten up the interface.

Soon I will publish a test version for our users to try out before i make it an official update.

Do you have any feedback on the changes I am making?
Make it known, because it is supposed to be done for your convenience!

Best regrards!

New Dark Design Capture_HSMADark.PNG Old Light Theme Capture_HSMAOldLight.PNG

FSWizard Machinist Speed and Feed App Update!

March 20, 2018, 7:34 am by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

After more than a year in development and having its entire code base rewritten FSWizard Android app has finally been released to production!

The main goal of the initial production release was to not drop the ball. So the number of new features is relatively small.

The biggest visible improvement is the new design that conforms to the mobile UI standards.

We also support more materials in the lite version of the app than ever:

For HSMAdvisor customers all the available materials will be downloaded after the Login.

Another improvement is the sliding Speed and Feed overrides that are now located not only on the usual Overrides panel, but also on the Result panel:

This allows you to see the effect your changes make in the real time.

The new version of the app also allows to push immediate updates and hot fixes.
So expect a lot of new features delivered to you faster.

As you might have guessed I did not re-design the whole app just to add a couple of new sliders and a new design.

My plans is to fully integrate FSWizard with HSMAdvisor having them exchange tool libraries and cutting data.
Ant the core design changes that i made will allow for this work to proceed forward.

New FSWizard. Check it out if you have not already!

PS. for now the update is only available for Lite Android version of the app. FSWizard PRO Android and all version for iOS are still sporting old version. But I expect to update them within a week as well.

Cautionary tale about Retention Knobs

December 19, 2017, 9:05 am by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)
IMG-0878.jpg

I came across a very educational post on Practical Machinist.

The topic-starter used over-aggressive speeds and feeds for his tiny BT30-taper machine and the retention knob (a.k.a Pull Stud) snapped causing the holder to drop lower, disengage from drive lugs and mess up the spindle bore in the process.

Just in case you don't know. Retention Knob looks like this and is used to pull the tool holder in to the spindle bore, thus holding it in place:

(Retention knob is the detail on the right)

This whole article is to remind everyone the importance of proper tool holder and retention knob maintenance.

Retention Knob Tips

  • Retention knobs (according to HAAS) have service life of about 6000-8000 hours.
    That means that if a tool holder is used 3 hours a day, you should replace the knob after 8 years in service.
    For smaller BT30 knobs, you should probably replace them every 4 years.
  • Retention knobs should be lightly oiled or greased (if TSC is used) once a month to lubricate the draw bar.
  • There should be no visible damage or rust on the knobs.
  • Do not exceed the maximum cutting force recommended by your machine manufacturer.
    Some of those high-helix end mills create large down-force that could in certain cases cause the knob to snap!
  • Also retention knobs should be torqued to manufacturer specs and the tightness should be regularly checked. Overtightened knobs may lead to taper of the tool deforming and causing uneven contact with the spindle bore.

Tool Holder Maintenance Tips

  • Keep Tool Holders clean. Especially the taper part that is matching to the spindle bore.
    Wipe them with a clean cloth. 
  • Do not use sand paper to clean tool holders! Soft Scotch-brite is acceptable to clean very dirty ones.
  • Repair dings and notches on the taper.
    Even an aluminum chip will cause a ding, that will create a high spot around it.
  • Replace worn-out tool holders with new ones.
    Signs of ageing is uneven contact with the spindle bore and fretting (blackening of taper in certain spots)
  • It is also a good idea to re-grind the spindle as well when replacing the tool holders - there are lot's of services that do that for very reasonable price.
  • Like wise when a new machine is purchased, only new holders and retention knobs should be used. Using old worn out holders on a new spindle bore will lead to its premature wear and even damage.

Those are all the things I could think of at the moment.
Let me know if there is anything missing.

Have a safe and productive week!

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